Alessandro Gogna

• Name — Alessandro Gogna • Nationality — Italy Italian • Born — 29 July 1946 • Birthplace — Genoa, Italy • Major Ascents — Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Marmolada di Rocca • Website — http: www.alessandrogogna.com

Born in Genoa, Italy, he is one of the key figures of Italian mountaineering, both as an active climber and as one of the foremost writers about the mountain world. He has lived and described the transition from classic mountaineering to modern climbing. The first ascents were on the mountains of his native Liguria. His interest moved to the walls of the Dolomites and he has since climbed in all possible environments, from sea level to the high camps of K2. He count over 500 new climbs in Italy. He still is one of the international guarantors of Mountain Wilderness having been among the founders. In 1981, Alessandro Gogna, with Maurizio Zanolla, climbed the Aguglia of Goloritzè in Sardinia, initiating the original development of the Selvaggio Blua trekking route.

• 1967: Scarason (Alpi Liguri), NE wall, first ascent • 1968: Pizzo Badile, NE wall, route Cassin, first winter ascent • 1968: Grandes Jorasses, N wall, route Cassin, first solo ascent • 1969: Grand Capucin, SE wall, Diretta dei Ragni, first winter ascent • 1969: Monte Rosa, Macugnaga E wall, via dei Francesi, first solo ascent • 1969: Matterhorn, Naso di Z’Mutt first ascent • 1970: Grivola, NE wall, via Cretier, first winter ascent • 1970: IIa Pala di S. Lucano, SW wall, first ascent • 1970: Marmolada, S wall, first ascent direct route • 1971: Pilier d'Angle, full Peutérey ridge, first winter ascent • 1971: Cima di Terranova Monte Civetta, NW wall, first ascent direct route • 1972: IIIa Pala di San Lucano, W wall, first ascent • 1972: Brenta Alta, NE ridge, first ascent • 1972: Grandes Jorasses, S wall, first ascent • 1972: Aiguille de Leschaux, NE wall, first ascent direct route • 1974: IIa Pala di San Lucano, E wall, first ascent • 1974: IVa Pala di San Lucano, S wall, first ascent • 1974: Campanile dei Zoldani (Moiazza), W wall, first ascent direct route • 1974: Palazza (Monti del Sole), SW wall, first ascent • 1981: Guglia di Goloritzé, first ascent ever • 1984: Liss dal Pesgunfi (Val Màsino), E wall, first ascent • 2005: Cima di Pino Sud (Col Nudo), E wall, first ascent

Alessandro Gogna is recorded with the occupation photographer. Recorded as mountaineer and photographer.