Renan Öztürk
Renan Öztürk (born April 7, 1980) is an American rock climber, free soloist, mountaineer, visual artist, and filmmaker. He is best known for climbing the Shark's Fin route on his second attempt to Meru Peak in the Himalayas with Jimmy Chin and Conrad Anker in 2011, where he also suffered a minor stroke. The successful 2011 ascent of the Shark's Fin on Meru and a prior attempt in 2008 were detailed in the 2015 documentary film Meru.
Renan Öztürk
- Born
- 1980
- Nationality
- Turkey
- Occupation
- mountaineer · film director · cinematographer
- Languages
- Turkish
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In this article
Early life and education
Early life and education
Öztürk was born in Germany to an American mother and a Turkish father. His parents divorced when he was one and he moved to Rhode Island with his mother. Öztürk, whose maternal grandparents were Jewish, attended Hebrew school weekly as a child. Öztürk attended Colby College, then transferred to Colorado College after his sophomore year. He received a degree in biology in 2003.
Climbing career
Climbing career
After college, Öztürk traveled the western United States with other rock climbers, wintering in Indian Creek or Joshua Tree, climbing in Yosemite during the spring and fall, and spending summers in Squamish, British Columbia. In 2004, while working as a rigger on a film team in Indian Creek, Öztürk impulsively decided to free solo North Sixshooter Peak. The crew filmed his ascent and included it in the climbing film, Return 2 Sender. His first attempt at the Shark's Fin route of Meru Peak took place in 2008 with Anker and Chin. They spent 19 days on the climb but turned back 500 feet short of the summit. In 2011, Öztürk suffered a near-fatal skiing accident in Jackson, Wyoming, from which he made a dramatic recovery that enabled him to complete the first ascent of the Shark's Fin on Meru Peak with Conrad Anker and Jimmy Chin, that same year. In 2019, Öztürk accompanied Mark Synnott on an Everest expedition to search for Sandy Irvine's body. Öztürk led a documentary team from National Geographic to film the expedition for a documentary called Lost on Everest.
Personal life
Personal life
Öztürk painted, often using found materials for his artwork, became interested in photography and filmmaking.
Notable ascents
Notable ascents
• 2011: First ascent of the Shark’s Fin Route on Meru Peak in the Himalaya. • 2012: First ascent of The Tooth Traverse (5.10R M5 A2+; 26,200 feet) across the Moose's Tooth Skyline, Denali National Park. • Free ascent of Freerider, on El Capitan. • First ascent of the SW Cat Ear Spire, Trango Towers, in the Himalaya • First ascent of The Beholder V, on the Eye Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Denali National Park. • First ascent of the SW Buttress of Tawoche, Khumbu Himalaya.
Awards
• 2011 Golden Piton Award 'Big Wall'. • 2013 National Geographic 'Adventurer of the Year'.
Text attribution
Licensing
Text attribution
Part of the biographical narrative on this page reuses licensed material. Its origin, revision and licence are recorded here.
The biographical narrative on this page is based on the Wikipedia article Renan Öztürk, revision 1348018552 (EN edition), by its contributors. VALÉORINE has edited that text and built its own documentary record around it. The reused material is available under CC BY-SA 4.0, and this page's reuse of it is offered under the same licence. Everything else on this page — the chronology, the holdings, the evidence, the plates and the connections — is VALÉORINE's own record. Sources and licences.
Notes from the source article
Cited by Wikipedia
Notes from the source article
These works are cited by the source article, in its own numbering. They are recorded as its citations, not as sources VALÉORINE has verified.
- 1.Renan Ozturk. www.facebook.com.
- 2.Meru. Meru About. merufilm.com.
- 3.Synnott, Mark. The third pole: mystery, obsession, and death on Mount Everest. Dutton, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC. 97–100. 2021. 978-1-5247-4558-5.
- 4.Roth, Josh. Before and After. Alpinist. 24 August 2011.
- 5.NatGeo expedition hunts for 1924 climber's body in Lost on Everest documentary. Ars Technica. June 30, 2020.
- 6.2011 Golden Piton Awards. Climbing. 8 February 2012.
- 7.Young, David. Renan Ozturk On Climbing, World Culture And Essential Equipment. Forbes. 17 May 2024.
- 8.The Artist: Renan Ozturk. National Geographic. 1 November 2012.
- 9.Renan Ozturk. The North Face.
- 10.Walsh, Anthony. In “The Sanctity of Space,” Renan Ozturk and Freddie Wilkinson Seek Alaskan First Ascents and Purpose in Exploration. Climbing. 11 May 2023.
References
Citations
References
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The Encyclopedia exists whether or not anything is for sale. Corrections are recorded rather than overwritten, and every version of this record is kept. Published 21 August 2026.
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