Costume design

It is intended to contribute to the fullness of the artistic, visual world which is unique to a particular theatrical or cinematic production. Costumes can denote status, age, or personality of a character, or provide visual interest to a character. Costumes may be for a theater, cinema, musical performance, cosplay, parties, or other events. • Illustration — Costume design for Gianetta - The Gondoliers

In ancient Greek theatre, costumes were simplistic yet symbolic, aiding in character differentiation. Ritualized masks were a defining feature, allowing actors to convey emotions without switching masks. Ancient Greek village festivals and processions in honor of Dionysus (See also: Dionysia) are believed to be the origin of theatre, and therefore theatre costume. Sculpture and vase paintings provide the clearest evidence of these costumes. Ritualized masks were used giving each character a specific look. They varied depending on whether they were used for comedic or dramatic purposes. Some masks were constructed with a cheerful as well as a serious side on the same face in an attempt to indicate a change in emotion without a change of mask. The same is true for the Romans, who continued the mask tradition; doubling a mask made doubling roles easier. During the Late Middle Ages in Europe, dramatic enactments of Bible stories were prevalent, therefore actual Christian vestments, stylized from traditional Byzantine court dress, were worn as costumes to keep the performances as realistic as possible. Stereotypical characterization was key when clothing performers for this style of theatre. In most instances actors had to supply their own costumes when playing a character found in daily life. By the Elizabethan era, costumes became the most important visual element, often made from luxurious fabrics. In Elizabethan theatre of the 16th and 17th centuries in England, costume emerged as the most important visual element. Garments were very expensive as they were made from the finest fabrics. By the 17th and 18th centuries, European theatre saw actors wearing contemporary fashion with added elements like crowns to signify royalty. The majority of characters were clothed in contemporary Elizabethan fashion. The costumes could be divided into five categories: "Ancient", which was out of style clothing used to represent another period; "Antique", older additions to contemporary clothing to distinguish classical characters; Dreamlike, "fanciful" garments for supernatural or allegorical characters; "Traditional" clothing which represented only a few specific people, such as Robin Hood, or "National or Racial" costumes that were intended to set apart a specific group of people but did not tend to be historically accurate. "Ordinarily, fashionable garments were used in both comedy and tragedy until 1727, when Adrienne Lecouvreur adopted the much more elaborate and formal court dress for tragedy. Her practice soon became standard for all tragic heroines" Major actors began to compete with one another about who would have the most lavish stage dress. This practice continued until around the 1750s when costumes became relevant to the character again. Art began to copy life and realistic characteristics were favored especially during the 19th century. The 19th century marked a shift toward historical accuracy, driven by figures like Georg II, Duke of Saxe-Meiningen, who insisted on authentic materials such as real chain mail and armor. For example, Georg the second, Duke of Saxe-Meiningen took personal interest in the theatre and began managing troupes. He advocated for authenticity and accuracy of the script and time period, therefore he refused to let actors tamper with their own costumes. He also made sure the materials were authentic and specific, using real chain mail, armor, swords, etc. No cheap substitutes would be allowed. In August 1823, James Planché's advocacy for historically accurate Shakespearean costumes revolutionized British theatre, inspiring productions that prioritized realism, especially when it comes to costumes. In the same year, a casual conversation led to one of Planché's more lasting effects on British theatre. He observed to Charles Kemble, the manager of Covent Garden, that "while a thousand pounds were frequently lavished upon a Christmas pantomime or an Easter spectacle, the plays of Shakespeare were put upon the stage with makeshift scenery, and, at the best, a new dress or two for the principal characters." Kemble "saw the possible advantage of correct appliances catching the taste of the town" and agreed to give Planché control of the costuming for the upcoming production of King John, if he would carry out the research, design the costumes and superintend the production. Planché had little experience in this area and sought the help of antiquaries such as Francis Douce and Sir Samuel Meyrick. The research involved sparked Planché's latent antiquarian interests; these came to occupy an increasing amount of his time later in life. Despite the actors' reservations, King John was a success and led to a number of similarly costumed Shakespeare productions by Kemble and Planché (Henry IV, Part I, As You Like It, Othello, Cymbeline, Julius Caesar). The designs and renderings of King John, Henry IV, As You Like It, Othello, Hamlet and Merchant of Venice were published, though there is no evidence that Hamlet and Merchant of Venice were ever produced with Planché's historically accurate costume designs. Planché also wrote a number of plays or adaptations which were staged with historically accurate costumes (Cortez, The Woman Never Vext, The Merchant's Wedding, Charles XII, The Partisans, The Brigand Chief, and Hofer). After 1830, although he still used period costume, he no longer claimed historical accuracy for his work in plays. His work in King John had brought about a "revolution in nineteenth-century stage practice" which lasted for almost a century. In 1923 the first of a series of innovative modern dress productions of Shakespeare plays, Cymbeline, directed by H. K. Ayliff, opened at Barry Jackson's Birmingham Repertory Theatre in England. • Illustration — Historical costumes of Le Cateau Cambrésis, France Costumes in Chinese theatre are very important, especially in Beijing Opera. They are usually heavily patterned with intense, bright colors. The standard items consist of at least 300 pieces and indicate the actors character type, age and social status through ornament, design, color and accessories. "Color is always used symbolically: red for loyalty and high position, yellow for royalty, and dark crimson for barbarians or military advisors." Symbolic significance is also found in the designs used for emblems. For example, the tiger stands for power and masculine strength. A majority of the clothing, regardless of rank, is made out of rich and luxurious materials. Makeup is also used symbolically and completes the overall look. In Japanese Noh drama masks are always used and the prominent aspect of the costume. They are made of wood and usually last for generations. There are five basic types: male, female, aged, deities and monsters, all with many variations. The masks are changed often throughout the play. In Kabuki, another form of Japanese theatre, actors do not wear masks but rely heavily on makeup for the characterizations. Features are exaggerated or removed and for some of the athletic roles musculature is outlined in a specific pattern. Traditional costumes are used for each role, based upon historical garments that are altered for dramatic effect. "Some costumes weigh as much as fifty pounds, and stage attendants assist the actors in keeping them properly arranged while on stage" In the 21st century digital technologies have ushered in a new era of costume design. Traditionally, theater costumers were manually crafted by hand, through sewing and patterns drafted on paper. Now, theater costumes are able to be designed using 3D printers, modeling software and other digital tools to create costumes more efficiently. Utilizing 3D costume-modeling programs and 3D printers allows designers to come up with the most efficient ways to save the amount of materials used on a project. Designers can optimize material usage with design software, and reduce costs through cheaper materials printed from 3D printing. Moreover, these technologies save on time where models can be adjusted in real time to the corresponding feedback through virtual fittings and sewing.